Rome's unique neighborhood on the wrong side of the river.
Trastevere is probably Rome’s coolest neighborhood. A neighborhood of winding cobblestone streets, umbrella covered cafe tables, drink specials, and restaurants that serve delicious pizzas until the small hours of the morning. It’s a hodgepodge of community, always packed with tourists and locals alike.
It’s easy to get lost and overwhelmed in Trastevere, so here are some of the best things that I absolutely recommend you see, do, and eat in Trastevere.
Ponte Sisto
If you’re approaching Trastevere from the city center, make your crossing of the Tiber River at Ponte Sisto. This bridge is pedestrian-only, and deposits you at a beautiful populus-filled square. There’s nearly always live music being performed, and it’s a perfect introduction to
the vibrant community that is Trastevere. Plus, as you cross you get a great view of the dome of St. Peter's Basilica!
Aperitivo
Trastevere is the perfect place to experience Italy’s classic before-dinner drinks tradition! There’s nothing quite like sitting down with an aperol spritz and a plate of tasty nibbles and watching the Roman world go by. You can stroll into any of Trastevere’s restaurants and enjoy an amazing aperitivo, but the two I recommend most highly are La Scaletea and Mimi e Coco Trast.
Basilica di Santa Maria
Church hopping is an amazing pastime in Rome. They rarely charge entrance fees, and the architecture and art that can be found inside is second to none! The star of Trastevere’s churches is -hands down- the Basilica di Santa Maria. Located right in the center of the neighborhood, this church sits right on the edge of its own fountain-decorated piazza. What makes this place special is the amazing gilding on its decor. It’s unlike any other church I've seen in Italy!
Dinner
After your aperitivo and exploring, it’s time to sit down to a late Roman dinner.
It’s hard to find bad food in Trastevere. The secret to finding the best restaurants here is to look for the places where the patios are full but not packed to the gills. No one on the patio probably means the food isn’t the best. Packed patios with a line out the door means you might be waiting upwards of an hour for your table.
Try to split the difference. I spent my entire time in Rome avoiding the overcrowded (and admittedly famous) places in favor of their slightly-less-swamped neighbors and was never disappointed. (Honestly, the only meal that let me down a little bit was the aperitivo I had at one of those high profile spots…) I promise the food will be amazing.
My top recommendations? Osteria Antica Ponte Sisto, Babylon Cafe, and Taverna 51.
People Watch
But perhaps the best thing to do in Trastevere is simply to soak in the incredible atmosphere. This is an active and bustling neighborhood in a city older than dirt. Amazing statues and fountains and stone arches that would get some sort of historical marker in the States are just part of the landscape here. You’ll be walking down a street that looks pedestrian-only and suddenly there’ll be a car! Or the ever-present Vespas so thoroughly associated with
Italy. You’ll see people from all walks of life out enjoying the beauty of a Roman evening with their cocktails and wine and glorious bowls of pasta. Maybe you’ll even get lucky like I did and pass a bachelorette party for a pair of sapphic brides-to-be celebrating their impending nuptials!
Explore all the Wonders of Trastevere!
It’s a slice of life in an ancient city that I’ve never quite seen anywhere else. There’ no other neighborhood like it in the world. Enjoy!
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Love and Shenanigans,
Andi
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